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编辑点评：口译、笔译的学习必须大量的阅读双语材料，双语的学习要齐头并进，只有多输入，才能有输出！刘小明的演讲材料,英文的翻译非常完美,语言地道,不是字对字的翻译,北外高翻,外交学院高翻,韩刚老师的口译面授班都以刘小明的演讲做课堂练习,是学习的好素材！
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驻英国大使刘晓明在第十二届中国（深圳）国际品牌服装服饰交易会上的主旨演讲
Keynote Speech of Ambassador Liu Xiaoming at the 12th China (Shenzhen) International Brand Clothing & Accessories Fair
中国时装业，扬帆出海正当时
China’s Fashion Industry: Time for Going Global
2012年7月9日，深圳
Shenzhen, 9 July 2012
尊敬的深圳市服装行业协会沈永芳会长，
女士们、先生们：
President Shen Yongfang,
Ladies and gentlemen,
非常高兴出席第十二届中国（深圳）国际品牌服装服饰交易会。感谢沈永芳会长的盛情邀请。
It is a great pleasure for me to join you at the 12th China (Shenzhen) International Brand Clothing and Accessories Fair. I’d like to thank you, Ms. Shen Yongfang, President of Shenzhen Garment Industry Association, for your kind invitation.
今天是我作为中国驻英国大使第三次参加中国时装活动。第一次是去年9月，深圳市经济贸易和信息化委员会及深圳市服装行业协会主办的“时尚深圳”活动第四次亮相世界著名的伦敦时装周，我到场祝贺并予以支持。第二次是今年2月，也是在伦敦时装周期间，我将“依文”和“例外”两个中国本土时装品牌请进了中国驻英国大使馆，合作举办了一场别开生面的时装“走秀”。一些英国朋友后来对我说，曾经无数次到中国使馆参加活动，那次时装秀最令人难忘。
This is the third Chinese fashion event I have ever attended as the Chinese Ambassador in the UK. The first was the fourth “Fashion Shenzhen” event during the world famous London Fashion Week in September 2011. The event was co-organized by Shenzhen Municipal Commission of Science, Industry, Trade and Information Industry and Shenzhen Garment Industry Association. I attended the event for congratulations and support. The second was a special fashion show in the Chinese Embassy in the UK last February, also during the London Fashion Week. It was presented in collaboration with our domestic fashion brands Eve and EXEPTION. Some of my British friends told me later that the fashion show was the most memorable one among the numerous events they attended in the Chinese Embassy.
论坛主办方希望我今天演讲谈谈：“中国服装业在当今世界新形势下所面临的机遇和挑战”。这个题目很大，也非常具有挑战性，应当由整个中国服装界和在座的各位专业人士来共同思考和回答。今天，我愿结合自己个人的一些观察和体会谈谈当前中国时装业如何“走出去”，希望能起到一些建言献策的作用。
The organizer of this forum asked me to talk about the “opportunities and challenges facing the Chinese garment industry in the new international situation”. This is quite a general topic, and also very challenging. I think it is what to be thought about and addressed by the Chinese garment industry as a whole and by all of you presented here. Today, I want to say something about how the Chinese garment industry can “go global” according to my own observations and experience. I hope this will be of some help to you.
众所周知，中国的纺织服装业是中国市场化最早、开放程度最高、国际竞争力最强的产业之一，是传统出口支柱，而且一直是中国出口产业最耀眼的一环。现在，中国出口的纺织服装产品占到世界市场1/3的份额。过去常说,“我们的朋友遍天下”。今天可以说，“我们的服装遍天下”。世界上无论哪里的人，可能身上或多或少都穿着中国生产的服装。我在英国对外演讲时有时引用这么一句话：“中国用8亿件衬衫才能换回一架空客飞机”。这固然本意是指中国产品的附加值不高，但也从另一个角度说明，服装业是中国的拳头出口产品，是中国经济发展、外贸发展的“历史功臣”。
As we all know, the textile and garment industry is among the first market-oriented industries in China. It is also one of our most open and internationally competitive industries. It is always a pillar and the brightest part in China’s export sector. Today, the textile and garment products exported from China have a share of 1/3 of the global market. In the past we often say that “our friends are all over the world”. Today we can say that “our garments are all over the world”. People around the world, no matter where they are, may wear more or less the garments produced in China. When I make speeches in the UK, I sometimes quote such a sentence: “China has to sell 800 million shirts in order to buy one Airbus plane.” This is originally meant to indicate the low added value of the Chinese products. But we can also see from it that garment products are China’s key exports, and the garment industry is the historical contributor to China’s economic and foreign trade development.
但是，我们也必须看到，经过改革开放30多年的发展，中国服装产品是“走出去”了，但中国的服装企业还没有“走出去”。我们还没有世人皆知的国际服装品牌，还没有遍布全球的品牌服装营销网络。一个简单的事实是，在伦敦著名的购物街牛津街和摄政王街上，目前还没有一家中国品牌时装专卖店，而法国、意大利和美国品牌服装店却比比皆是，尽管这些品牌服装的标签上可能印着“中国制造”。这就是我们必须正视的现实。
But we must also be aware of one thing: It is true that the Chinese garment products are “going global” after the past 30-odd years of development, but our garment enterprises are not doing so. We have no well-known international clothing brands. Nor do we have any global marketing network for brand clothing. This is evidenced by a simple fact. Oxford Street and Regent Street are the famous shopping streets in London. But along these streets there is not even a single fashion boutique for Chinese brands. In comparison, the boutiques for the French, Italian and American brands are seen everywhere, though the cloths of these brands may have the mark “made in China” printed on their labels. This is the fact that we must face squarely.
当前，世界经济形势总体看处于复苏阶段，但仍存在许多不稳定性和不确定性，美国经济增长的乏力，欧债危机的反复，都很让人揪心。应当说危机还没有过去，中国时装业所处的外部环境并不乐观。订单、成本、资金这些问题可能会继续困扰许多中国企业。但俗话说：“大浪淘沙”，只有这样，真正有规模、有实力的时装企业才能脱颖而出，获取市场优势地位。常言道：危机、危机，“危中有机”，我们有困难，别人的困难可能比我们更大。比如，一些国际大牌时装企业就出现了资金链紧张甚至断裂问题。我认为，有资金、有品牌、有创新的中国时装企业只要抓住机遇，趁势而上，就能打入国际时装高端市场。
Generally speaking, the world economy is recovering. But there are still many factors of instability and uncertainty. For example, the weak economic growth in the US and the persistent European debt crisis are both the issues of great concerns. We should say that the crisis is not over yet. So we have no reason to be optimistic about the external environment of the Chinese fashion industry. The issues of orders, costs and capital may continuously plague many Chinese enterprises. But as the saying goes, “the great waves wash away the sands to display the gold”. Only in crisis can the large and strong fashion enterprises stand out and become market leaders. We Chinese often see the opportunities in crisis. It is true that we are in difficulties. But others are likely to be in greater difficulties. Some international big-name fashion enterprises are suffering from the tense or even broken capital chain. From my point of view, the Chinese fashion enterprises have their capital, brands and innovative mind. They can enter into the high-end international market if only they can seize the opportunity and make good use of it.
今天，我们常说中国要转变发展方式，中国经济要转型升级。经济如何转型升级，我认为首先就是中国企业要转型升级，也就是说我们的企业不仅要会“中国制造”——制造产品，保持我们的传统优势，也要会“中国创造”——创造形象、风格和效益，实现自我超越。
Today, we often say that China needs to change its mode of development and to transform and upgrade its economy. How to transform and upgrade the economy? I think the Chinese enterprises should be transformed and upgraded first. That is to say, our enterprises should be able to both make and create. We need the products “made in China” to maintain our traditional strengths. At the same time, we also need the image, style and benefits “created in China” to achieve self-transcendence.
我认为，当前中国时装企业“走出去”就是实现自身转型升级的必要步骤和重要工程。中国时装企业应当勇于扬帆起航，进军国际市场，走国际化发展道路，从而将自己做大做强。为此，中国企业应当顺应国际时装产业的发展规律，牢牢抓住三个重要环节：
In my opinion, “going global” is now an important and necessary step for the Chinese fashion enterprises to realize their own transformation and upgrading. These enterprises should have the courage to set sail into the international market and develop internationally. This will help them to become bigger and stronger. To this end, the Chinese enterprises should follow the law of development of the international fashion industry and firmly focus on the following three important aspects:
第一个环节是品牌。品牌是企业的生命。这些年，中国时装企业在品牌建设上应当说下了不少功夫，创建了不少知名品牌，如依文、鄂尔多斯、雅戈尔等，我就不一一列举了，它们在国内市场已经具有相当的知名度。深服会就素有品牌发展“助推器”之称。中国时装企业也收购了一些国外的品牌。
The first aspect is brand. Brand is the lifeline of an enterprise. The Chinese fashion enterprises have made great efforts in brand building these years and have created a lot of well-known brands in the domestic market, such as EVE, Ordos and Younger, to name but a few. The Shenzhen Clothing & Accessories Fair has long been known as the “booster” of brand building. Moreover, the Chinese fashion companies have also acquired some foreign brands.
如何在世界上成功塑造中国自己的国际品牌，我认为有两个因素必不可少。一是历史积淀。国际知名的时装品牌都具有相当长的历史积淀，不少都是“百年经典”。比如，巴宝莉 (BURBERRY) 是英国的一个百年品牌，创办于1856年。156年来，巴宝莉以经典的格子图案、独特的布料功能和大方优雅的剪裁，历久不衰，从而成为最能代表英国气质的品牌。中国企业在培育品牌的过程中，要借鉴国外经验，学会耐得下心，沉得住气，制定长远战略，构筑百年大计，厚积而薄发。
Then how to build our own international brands in the world? I think there are two essential factors. The first factor is the historical accumulation. All the world renowned fashion brands have a long history. Many of them are “century classics”. For example, BURBERRY is a century-old British brand founded in 1856. Over the past 156 years, BURBERRY has maintained its popularity with its classic plaid patterns, unique fabrics and elegant tailoring. It becomes the most representative brand of the British style. In the process of brand building, the Chinese enterprises should learn from the foreign experience like this to be patient. They need to develop a long-term strategy, set a long-term goal and lay a solid foundation for success.
二是文化内涵。企业品牌的生命力在于它总是与特定文化、历史事件或某一众人皆知的故事联系在一起。同样是巴宝莉，它与英国历史上最令人怀旧的一场战争——第一次世界大战密不可分，它的风雨衣在一战中成为英军的军衣。今天，人们每当看到一战影片中英军穿着的风雨衣，就会想到巴宝莉。英语字典里，甚至用“Burberry”来代表风雨衣。中国企业也要学会给自己的品牌赋予“中国故事”，并且相信随着中国的发展，“中国故事”迟早也会成为“世界故事”。
The second factor for building an international brand is cultural content. A vibrant brand is always linked with a specific cultural or historical event or a well-known story. Let’s still take BURBERRY as an example. The brand is inseparable from the World War I, the most memorable war in the British history. Its raincoat was the military uniform of the British Army in that war. Today, people will think of BURBERRY once they see the British Army wearing raincoats in the films about the World War I. The word “Burberry” is even a synonym of raincoat in English dictionaries. The Chinese enterprises should learn to give “Chinese stories” to their own brands. I believe that with the development of China, the “Chinese stories” will sooner or later become “world stories”.
中国时装业“走出去”，第二个重要环节是设计。时装不同于一般的服装，它的价值主要来自于设计。但恰恰是长期以来，设计一直是中国时装企业普遍的软胁。解决这个问题，我认为要加强两点：
The second aspect for the Chinese fashion industry to “go global” is design. Unlike general garments, fashion clothes realize their value primarily from the design. But it is precisely the design that has long been a common weakness of the Chinese fashion companies. To address this weakness, I think we have to make more efforts in two ways:
一是中国时装企业要建设自己一流的设计团队。将优秀的时装设计师吸收在企业麾下，创立附属于企业的设计工作室，为设计师创造一个充分展现才华的空间。可以说，中国时装企业的强大，首先是设计团队的强大；中国时装企业“走出去”，首先是中国的时装设计师“走出去”，成为世界一流的设计师。
First, the Chinese fashion companies need to build their own first-class design teams. They should attract the excellent fashion designers and establish subsidiary design studios for the designers to allow them to fully demonstrate their talent. It is reasonable to say that for our fashion enterprises to become powerful, the design teams should first become powerful, and for the fashion enterprises to “go global”, the Chinese fashion designers should first “go global” and become world-class designers.
二是中国时装企业必须紧跟世界时尚潮流。中国优秀的时装企业应当走进伦敦、米兰、巴黎和纽约这样的国际著名时装周，去直接和及时了解、掌握世界时尚最新信息动态和流行元素，同时也带去自己的作品，交流切磋。
Second, the Chinese fashion companies must closely follow the world fashion trend. The excellent fashion companies in China should go to the famous Fashion Weeks in London, Milan, Paris and New York. There, they can directly get the latest information on the world fashion dynamics and the popular elements, and they can also bring their own works for exchange of views.
我高兴地看到，近年来，中国时装设计师不断出现在伦敦时装周这样的国际著名时装舞台，将他们的作品展现给世界。英国时装协会主席蒂尔曼曾对我说：“中国设计师已经达到了世界一流水平，他们应当在国际舞台上有更多的精彩展示。”英国文化委员会总裁戴维信亦对我说：“以前常说英国向中国出口高端时装，现在看来中国也可以向英国出口高端服饰。”
I’m pleased to see more and more Chinese fashion designers at the well-known international fashion stages such as the London Fashion Week in recent years, presenting their works to the world. Mr. Harold Tillman, Chairman of the British Fashion Council, once told me that “the Chinese designers are world-class ones. They should have more dazzling shows in the international arena.” Mr. Martin Davidson, Chief Executive of the British Council, also said to me that “In the past, Britain often exported the high-end fashion clothes to China. It now appears that China can also export these clothes to Britain.”
我也高兴地看到，深圳市服装行业协会发挥了龙头作用，联合深圳各大时装企业，有效整合资源，在深圳市政府支持下，近年连续参加伦敦时装周，共同出海，集体亮相，实现了中国时装企业的突破。
I’m also pleased to see that the Shenzhen Garment Industry Association is playing a leading role. With the support of the Shenzhen Municipal Government, the Association has effectively integrated resources and organized the major fashion enterprises in Shenzhen to attend the London Fashion Week for several consecutive years. This collective debut abroad is a breakthrough among the Chinese fashion enterprises.
中国时装业“走出去”，第三个重要环节是营销。就产业价值链来说，这与设计、研发可谓齐鼓相当，都是属于高附加值环节。同时，企业只有掌握了营销，才能在市场中及时了解顾客需求信息，及时获悉市场对产品的反馈。
The third important aspect for the Chinese fashion industry to go global is marketing. This is an equally important and high value-added part in the value chain compared with design and R & D. At the same time, only the enterprises with the strength in market can keep abreast of the customer demand in the market and the market feedback.
可能在座的大多数人都知道西班牙时装企业“ZARA”创造的“ZARA模式”。“ZARA模式”作为工商管理中的一个经典案例，最为人称道的就是产品从需求、设计、生产、物流到上架销售只需要两个星期，从而实现为顾客提供“买得起的快速时装”。ZARA公司是怎么做到这一点呢？很重要的一点就是公司坚持自己拥有和运营几乎所有的连锁店网络，从而实现了出色的全程供应链管理，也实现了市场信息的快速搜集和反应。
Perhaps most of you know the “ZARA mode” created by the Spanish fashion company ZARA. This is a typical case of business administration. The most impressive thing of the “ZARA mode” is: it takes just two weeks for the whole process from demand, design, production, logistics through to the shelves. With this mode, the ZARA company achieves the goal of providing customers with “affordable fast fashion”. How does ZARA make it? I think It is important that the company owns and operates almost all of its chain stores. This enables an excellent full supply chain management and a rapid market information collection and response.
中国时装企业“走出去”，就是企业实现国际化的过程。一个单纯的生产型企业，谈不上成为国际化企业。一个国际化企业，必须掌握全球营销渠道。
To the Chinese fashion enterprises, “going global” is a process of internationalization. A simple production-oriented enterprise cannot be an international one. It should have its global marketing channels
综上所述，我认为中国时装业“走出去”如果牢牢抓住品牌、设计和营销三大重要环节，实际上就是完整掌握了服装产业的价值链高端部分，也就是利润最大、效益最好的三个环节，而这三个环节恰恰是中国时装企业多年没有迈过的一道发展门槛。这道门槛的确很高，不容易跨越，但是我们只要跨过去，我们就将进入一片新天地，前途就将一片光明。现在应当是跨越它的时候了！
In summary, I think if the Chinese fashion industry firmly focuses on brand, design and marketing in the process of “going global”, it will in fact completely grasp the high-end part of the value chain of the garment industry, that is, the three most profitable and beneficial sectors. These sectors are exactly a threshold that the Chinese fashion enterprises have not crossed for many years. Indeed, this threshold is high and not easy to cross. But as long as we cross it, we will enter a new world and face a bright future. Now it is time to cross it!
最后，我衷心祝愿中国时装业越做越大，越做越强！也预祝第十二届中国（深圳）国际品牌服装服饰交易会圆满成功。
I sincerely hope that the Chinese fashion industry will become bigger and stronger!
I wish the 12th China (Shenzhen) International Brand Clothing & Accessories Fair a great success.
谢谢。
Thank you.
天之聪教育
2012-08-17
外交部
506次
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